Women and Children's Clothing Guidelines for Patriots' Day
Introduction
The goal of the Lexington Minute Men is to accurately portray a Massachusetts militia company as it appeared between April 18, 1775 and October 18, 1775. As a result, every member of the company, including those who portray female Lexington residents, is expected and, more importantly, required, to accurately portray a Massachusetts resident to the extent permitted by up to date research. Wearing outfits made of polyester, sewing plastic or modern buttons to clothing, wearing 18th century clothing uncommon to the Massachusetts Bay Colony, or simply wearing an incomplete outfit distorts the historical period and events we cherish so deeply. Further, by knowingly recreating clothing and equipment incorrectly, we engage in mis- education and do a disservice to American History.
The Lexington Minute Men adheres to the “five-foot rule”, the Continental Line's standard for authenticity. The five-foot rule came into existence in 1988 when the Continental Line was created as an umbrella organization to oversee Revolutionary War reenactments. All member units of the Continental Line are required to follow this rule.
There are several prerequisites to the five-foot rule:
A. All clothing MUST be produced from natural sources (Cotton, linen, wool, or leather) rather than man made sources.
B. All clothing and equipment must be from the correct period AND from the correct location. For example, a reproduced 1778 linen hunting shirt from the Ohio River Valley would not be appropriate for a person portraying a 1775 Massachusetts militiaman, but a reproduced wool frock coat from 1767 Massachusetts would.
C. All clothing and equipment must be supported and justified by at least two (2) primary and documentable sources. Primary sources include prints, paintings, letters, diaries, depositions, court records, Provincial Congress minutes, petitions, journals, newspaper advertisements, estate inventories and town resolves.
The five foot rule is defined as:
A person will be authentic if the spectator, from a distance of no more than five feet,
cannot:
1. Identify or observe any items that are not reproductions of 18th century articles of clothing, weapons or
equipment.
2. Identify or observe any article of clothing that is not cut and fit in the proper 18th century manner. “Cut in the
proper 18th century manner” is defined as clothing that is produced, cut and sewn so that it is identical or nearly
identical to 18th century clothing-patterns and surviving articles of clothing. “Fit in the proper 18th
century manner” is defined as clothing worn on the body tight yet not constricted.
3. Identify or observe any 20th century anachronisms, including, but not limited to, modern shoes, modern shoes
with buckles tied to them, modern glasses and modern wristwatches.
Please keep in mind that under the five-foot rule, the “spectator” is considered to be an experienced reenactor who is able to identify and observe what does or does not look authentic. However, for the five-foot rule even to apply, you meet the required pre-requisites listed above. If your clothing and equipment do not qualify under the five-foot rule, you will NOT be allowed to participate in a living history event or the annual Battle of Lexington Reenactment.
The Guidelines
One of the most daunting things about creating a proper 18th century wardrobe is fabrics. With so many modern options, it can be overwhelming; however by keeping to a few guidelines, you will find it easy to choose correctly. The first guideline is natural fabrics only. One hundred percent wool, linen, cotton, and, in rare cases, silk are the only fabrics that should ever be part of your wardrobe. It can be tempting to pick up a bolt of a cheap poly-blend for a song, but it is simply inaccurate. Also, keep in mind that natural fibre fabrics last far longer and are more comfortable (not to mention MUCH safer around open campfires) than any rayon blend, so the initial investment of high-quality fabrics will benefit you in the long run.
The best option for the impression of a low to middle class female from Lexington is good worsted wool. A lightweight (called “tropical weight”) worsted wool is serviceable, easy to work with, very long lasting, dirt-resistant, and accurate. The second best option is linen, which
is easy to find, generally inexpensive, and forgiving as a sewing fabric. Linen is a very comfortable fabric to wear, particularly on hot days, and is accurate to the period. Cotton has been included on the list of accurate fabrics, but it should be treated with great caution, as the modern cotton available is nothing like 18th-century cotton. It is best to avoid this fabric until
you have a very good familiarity with weaves and weights of 18th century fabrics. Finally, silk is an option, but should be used extremely sparingly as it was an expensive, luxurious fabric in the period (some things never change!) and very few Lexington women on the eve of the American Revolution would have the ability to afford it.
It is best to avoid most prints and patterns when you are starting out, as it can be tricky to find one appropriate to the period and they were frequently more expensive in the 18th century (though certainly not always). If you have a stripe, print, or pattern that you would like to use, it is best to ask a more experienced and knowledgeable member of the Company before buying it. 19th century calicoes are not correct.
When in doubt, stick with solid colors; blues, greys, and browns were most common, though you certainly find many yellows and reds along with the occasional green. Once again, if you are curious about a color being accurate, please check with the other members.
Every single item of clothing in the 18th century was sewn by hand, so that is a standard we should always strive towards. Realistically, the demands of time and skill make this standard sometimes unattainable, so there will likely be articles of clothing that are sewn by machine in your wardrobe. Interior seams and linings can be done by machine in a pinch, but all visible seams and finishes should be done by hand. Not only is it accurate, but it easier construct 18th century clothes using hand sewing, as the techniques were not developed for machine sewing. Small items like caps and kerchiefs that are highly visible should be sewn entirely by hand.
Stockings: Cotton blend are the most common, if not exactly accurate, and can be attained from most sutlers. You can also find good wool stockings and occasionally linsey- woolsey from some sutlers. You should invest in multiple pairs, as nothing will ruin an event quicker that wet stockings you can’t change out of. Avoid stripes, as solid colors are by far the
most accurate. Horizontal stripes are not allowed as they are not correct to the period.1
Garters: Absolutely necessary to avoid the baggy ankle look. A piece of twill tape, securely but comfortable wrapped twice around the leg below the knee is all you need. Many sutlers carry leather garters, but one may find them an unnecessary expense.2
Shoes: Period appropriate shoes are sadly hard to find and rather expensive. You will need to buy specialty 18th century shoes from a sutler or plain modern black leather shoes may be worn if petticoats reach ankles or lower. Please check with the other members of the regiment with where to purchase your shoes. It would appear that women in the period (yes, even Lexington women!) wore heeled shoes and not the flat-soled shoes that the men wore, though there is not much research available to state that as a fact.3
Shift: Lightweight, white linen. A good linen shift will last you a long time and will be quite comfortable. It should be upper calf to knee length. The sleeves should end just below the elbow and be relatively close fitting to the arms (none of those long, billowy “pirate wench” sleeves). There are multiple ways to finish the sleeve hems. The neckline should be very low (about an inch above your stays) and very wide (but not so wide it falls off your shoulders. It was most common for shifts to have plain necklines, but you also occasionally find very narrow drawstring which ties inside of the shift. All stitching on neckline and arms should be hand-sewn, but machine sewn is permissible. This is one place where it is very important to use linen. A cotton shift will be almost unbearably stifling on a hot day. The purpose of a shift is to soak up sweat to keep our outer garments clean and to provide a comfortable base under your stays.
Linen performs both of these tasks beautifully. This is also the place to splurge on high-quality fabric, as it is worn immediately next to the skin.4
Stays: It is impossible to achieve the 18th century “look” without stays. All women, except the very young, the very sick, and the absolute lowest dregs of society wore stays. It was considered beyond inappropriate for a woman to go out in public (even semi-public within her own home!) without stays or jumps. They may seem daunting when starting out, but they are actually a manageable, if not time-consuming, project. If you do not have the skills to sew your own stays, they can be purchased, but they will be expensive. Stays will likely be the most expensive investment for a female reenactor who is just starting out, however they are a sound investment (and still MUCH less than a weapon of any kind! We women have it easy). A good, well-made set of stays will last you years. Because of our high standards of authenticity, we require every female participant to wear them if wearing a fitted garment like gown, caraco or jacket. No woman is ever allowed to field without appropriate undergarments.5 Petticoats: Two Petticoats in a solid color are the minimum, as at least two were worn at all times. Print petticoats are only acceptable if worn with a gown or jacket of the same fabric. Petticoats generally run from mid-calf to above the ankle (most common). Avoid making them too long, and you will be stumbling over them continuously. Make sure to make them roomy enough to be full- generally about 120” circumference. Depending on your location, they can be wool, linen, or one of each. If you plan on attending events in the north and south, it is probably a good idea to have more than two, so that you will not be stuck in Virginia in July wearing a wool petticoat, or New York in November with only linen. They need to be pleated to a waistband, not gathered. These long seams may be machined, but everything else should be done by hand. Petticoats are very simple to make and are an excellent garment to start out with.6
Outer Garment: There are many options for the outer garment: gown, bedgown, jacket, etc. (all of these garments, because of their visibility, must be hand sewn. Linings and interior seams may be machined if time is a factor, but any visible stitch needs to be done by hand). All of the following are acceptable, but some are more accurate than others. These are in order from most to least accurate:7
Gown: This was by far the most common thing worn by women of all classes in the 18th century, but they are underrepresented in the reenacting community because of the skill- level required to construct them. We would eventually like every woman in the Company to have a gown, and this should be what all the camp followers are working toward. If you have the skill, please consider making one of these instead of the other options.
Bedgown: The second-best option for an outer garment. These appear to be common among the lower and middle classes, and are reasonably easy to construct.
Shortgown: The third best option. These are very easy and quick to make, and because of that are very, very common in the reenacting community. Whether or not they are entirely accurate for us is still up for debate, as most of the extant examples seem to come out of the Pennsylvania area and not out of England. While not ideal, it is acceptable as a starting out option.
Jacket: Placed last simply because these seem to be slightly more upper-class garments than a bedgown or a shortgown. They are entirely accurate for our time period, though, so don’t consider this to be entirely inappropriate. A well-seasoned, worn-in, slightly out of fashion jacket can be an excellent option, as long as everyone in the unit isn’t wearing
one. The one rule of these garments is that they must be sleeved and covering the elbow. The all too frequently seen “bodices” are entirely inaccurate and have little base in history. They are not allowed.8
Apron: Aprons were worn by women of all classes and can be anything from simple woollen squares to extravagant embroidered silk. For our purposes you will need a large enough apron to cover most of the front of your skirts. These were frequently made of striped or checked white linen, but a piece of wool is entirely appropriate. Your apron will take a great deal of wear so it should be strongly made. It should be hand sewn and pleated to a piece of linen or woollen tape.9
Neck Handkerchief: The small triangle or square of fabric that was used to fill in the neckline of low-cut 18th century clothing. This is most commonly made out of a piece of white linen, though a piece of appropriate silk or printed cotton is also accurate (check with the unit first!) as are many other fabrics. This should be hand sewn.10
Cap: Women in the 18th century (except in very rare instances) always covered their head. Any woman in camp should have a cap on at all times. These must be made from white linen only and entirely hand sewn. There are many styles that are accurate, but the most common style is three-pieces with a separate band of fabric that attaches the ruffle to the caul of the cap. The circular, drawstring “mob caps” are not accurate and should not be used. The cap should be large enough to cover most of your head but not so large that it swallows your face. Consult period images to see some of the many varieties of caps from the period.11
Hat: Low-crowned women’s style in straw, or felt, plain or covered; or bonnet. A cap or hat is required except for fine ladies. Hats typically were simply decorated; flowers, and feathers should be avoided, unless doing a gentry interpretation.
Hair: Your hair will generally not be seen as it will always be covered by your cap, but keep in mind that your hair should never be seen hanging out of your cap. Loose hair, ponytails and braids should not be showing, and should be pinned up or kept in your cap at all times. Bangs should not show as they were rare in the 18th century. Please pin them under your cap.12
Jewellery: Most Lexington women would not have had any jewellery with them (except a wedding band) as they were women of very moderate means. While we will allow a simple wedding band, please do not wear any other jewellery, including earrings.13
Makeup: No makeup is allowed. Do not wear perfume and avoid wearing heavily scented lotions, sunscreens, and other toiletries.14
Cold weather gear: Optional. Period-pattern cloaks, mantles, tippets, hoods, etc. Wool kerchiefs. Woven or knitted wool, linen, or cotton (or silk appropriate to the overall impression) mitts, mittens, or gloves. Wool and/ or fur muffs. Kinsale cloaks are discouraged as are Celtic pins and penannular brooches. Wearing a men’s military uniform coat is unacceptable.
About lace: Eyelet and tatting are not authentic to the period. Crochet is not acceptable in any form (lace, shawls, etc.). Machine-made lace is acceptable if it is in imitation of period- style lace.
Baskets, market baskets and workbags: Baskets should be made of wood splint or willow, metal parts are discouraged. Also use of pockets is strongly encouraged.
Children’s Clothing Babes in arms: Shirt or shift, and cap, of linen, cotton, or wool, in white. A frock and petticoat are optional but preferred. Shoes and stockings optional. If plastic diapers are used, cover with a cloth.
Young children: (unbreeched boys from toddlers through age 3 to 7 and girls from toddlers through early puberty) shift of linen, cotton, or wool, in white or natural with a child’s frock (back closing for either gender/front closing for boys only) and petticoat. Cap and /or hat for girls (optional but preferred), workman’s cap or uncocked or single cocked hat for boys (optional but preferred). Stockings, as for women. (Period-style shoes due to the expense of children’s shoes, any black or brown leather lace-up modern shoes are also acceptable.)Once boys reach “breeched” age of 7, boys should appear at least in stockings, breeches, workshirt, period correct coat or jacket and cap or hat. Period-style shoes; due to the expense of children’s shoes, any black or brown leather lace-up modern shoes are also acceptable.
1 Rebecca L. Fifield, ed., Women’s Dress during the American Revolution: An Interpretive Guide, (New Jersey: Brigade of the American Revolution, 2004), 59.
2 Ibid.
3 Mara Riley, Whatever Shall I Wear? A Guide to Assembling a Woman’s Basic 18th Century Wardrobe, (Excelsior
Springs: Graphics/Fine Arts Press, 2002), 31.
4 Fifield, 21-24
5 Riley, 14-15. See also Fifield, 32-33. 6 Fifield, 25-31.
7 Ibid., 35-43.
8 Ibid., 44.
9 Riley, 25.
10 Fifield, 48-49.
11 Ibid., 50-56.
12 Ibid., 68-69.
13 Ibid
14 Ibid
The goal of the Lexington Minute Men is to accurately portray a Massachusetts militia company as it appeared between April 18, 1775 and October 18, 1775. As a result, every member of the company, including those who portray female Lexington residents, is expected and, more importantly, required, to accurately portray a Massachusetts resident to the extent permitted by up to date research. Wearing outfits made of polyester, sewing plastic or modern buttons to clothing, wearing 18th century clothing uncommon to the Massachusetts Bay Colony, or simply wearing an incomplete outfit distorts the historical period and events we cherish so deeply. Further, by knowingly recreating clothing and equipment incorrectly, we engage in mis- education and do a disservice to American History.
The Lexington Minute Men adheres to the “five-foot rule”, the Continental Line's standard for authenticity. The five-foot rule came into existence in 1988 when the Continental Line was created as an umbrella organization to oversee Revolutionary War reenactments. All member units of the Continental Line are required to follow this rule.
There are several prerequisites to the five-foot rule:
A. All clothing MUST be produced from natural sources (Cotton, linen, wool, or leather) rather than man made sources.
B. All clothing and equipment must be from the correct period AND from the correct location. For example, a reproduced 1778 linen hunting shirt from the Ohio River Valley would not be appropriate for a person portraying a 1775 Massachusetts militiaman, but a reproduced wool frock coat from 1767 Massachusetts would.
C. All clothing and equipment must be supported and justified by at least two (2) primary and documentable sources. Primary sources include prints, paintings, letters, diaries, depositions, court records, Provincial Congress minutes, petitions, journals, newspaper advertisements, estate inventories and town resolves.
The five foot rule is defined as:
A person will be authentic if the spectator, from a distance of no more than five feet,
cannot:
1. Identify or observe any items that are not reproductions of 18th century articles of clothing, weapons or
equipment.
2. Identify or observe any article of clothing that is not cut and fit in the proper 18th century manner. “Cut in the
proper 18th century manner” is defined as clothing that is produced, cut and sewn so that it is identical or nearly
identical to 18th century clothing-patterns and surviving articles of clothing. “Fit in the proper 18th
century manner” is defined as clothing worn on the body tight yet not constricted.
3. Identify or observe any 20th century anachronisms, including, but not limited to, modern shoes, modern shoes
with buckles tied to them, modern glasses and modern wristwatches.
Please keep in mind that under the five-foot rule, the “spectator” is considered to be an experienced reenactor who is able to identify and observe what does or does not look authentic. However, for the five-foot rule even to apply, you meet the required pre-requisites listed above. If your clothing and equipment do not qualify under the five-foot rule, you will NOT be allowed to participate in a living history event or the annual Battle of Lexington Reenactment.
The Guidelines
One of the most daunting things about creating a proper 18th century wardrobe is fabrics. With so many modern options, it can be overwhelming; however by keeping to a few guidelines, you will find it easy to choose correctly. The first guideline is natural fabrics only. One hundred percent wool, linen, cotton, and, in rare cases, silk are the only fabrics that should ever be part of your wardrobe. It can be tempting to pick up a bolt of a cheap poly-blend for a song, but it is simply inaccurate. Also, keep in mind that natural fibre fabrics last far longer and are more comfortable (not to mention MUCH safer around open campfires) than any rayon blend, so the initial investment of high-quality fabrics will benefit you in the long run.
The best option for the impression of a low to middle class female from Lexington is good worsted wool. A lightweight (called “tropical weight”) worsted wool is serviceable, easy to work with, very long lasting, dirt-resistant, and accurate. The second best option is linen, which
is easy to find, generally inexpensive, and forgiving as a sewing fabric. Linen is a very comfortable fabric to wear, particularly on hot days, and is accurate to the period. Cotton has been included on the list of accurate fabrics, but it should be treated with great caution, as the modern cotton available is nothing like 18th-century cotton. It is best to avoid this fabric until
you have a very good familiarity with weaves and weights of 18th century fabrics. Finally, silk is an option, but should be used extremely sparingly as it was an expensive, luxurious fabric in the period (some things never change!) and very few Lexington women on the eve of the American Revolution would have the ability to afford it.
It is best to avoid most prints and patterns when you are starting out, as it can be tricky to find one appropriate to the period and they were frequently more expensive in the 18th century (though certainly not always). If you have a stripe, print, or pattern that you would like to use, it is best to ask a more experienced and knowledgeable member of the Company before buying it. 19th century calicoes are not correct.
When in doubt, stick with solid colors; blues, greys, and browns were most common, though you certainly find many yellows and reds along with the occasional green. Once again, if you are curious about a color being accurate, please check with the other members.
Every single item of clothing in the 18th century was sewn by hand, so that is a standard we should always strive towards. Realistically, the demands of time and skill make this standard sometimes unattainable, so there will likely be articles of clothing that are sewn by machine in your wardrobe. Interior seams and linings can be done by machine in a pinch, but all visible seams and finishes should be done by hand. Not only is it accurate, but it easier construct 18th century clothes using hand sewing, as the techniques were not developed for machine sewing. Small items like caps and kerchiefs that are highly visible should be sewn entirely by hand.
Stockings: Cotton blend are the most common, if not exactly accurate, and can be attained from most sutlers. You can also find good wool stockings and occasionally linsey- woolsey from some sutlers. You should invest in multiple pairs, as nothing will ruin an event quicker that wet stockings you can’t change out of. Avoid stripes, as solid colors are by far the
most accurate. Horizontal stripes are not allowed as they are not correct to the period.1
Garters: Absolutely necessary to avoid the baggy ankle look. A piece of twill tape, securely but comfortable wrapped twice around the leg below the knee is all you need. Many sutlers carry leather garters, but one may find them an unnecessary expense.2
Shoes: Period appropriate shoes are sadly hard to find and rather expensive. You will need to buy specialty 18th century shoes from a sutler or plain modern black leather shoes may be worn if petticoats reach ankles or lower. Please check with the other members of the regiment with where to purchase your shoes. It would appear that women in the period (yes, even Lexington women!) wore heeled shoes and not the flat-soled shoes that the men wore, though there is not much research available to state that as a fact.3
Shift: Lightweight, white linen. A good linen shift will last you a long time and will be quite comfortable. It should be upper calf to knee length. The sleeves should end just below the elbow and be relatively close fitting to the arms (none of those long, billowy “pirate wench” sleeves). There are multiple ways to finish the sleeve hems. The neckline should be very low (about an inch above your stays) and very wide (but not so wide it falls off your shoulders. It was most common for shifts to have plain necklines, but you also occasionally find very narrow drawstring which ties inside of the shift. All stitching on neckline and arms should be hand-sewn, but machine sewn is permissible. This is one place where it is very important to use linen. A cotton shift will be almost unbearably stifling on a hot day. The purpose of a shift is to soak up sweat to keep our outer garments clean and to provide a comfortable base under your stays.
Linen performs both of these tasks beautifully. This is also the place to splurge on high-quality fabric, as it is worn immediately next to the skin.4
Stays: It is impossible to achieve the 18th century “look” without stays. All women, except the very young, the very sick, and the absolute lowest dregs of society wore stays. It was considered beyond inappropriate for a woman to go out in public (even semi-public within her own home!) without stays or jumps. They may seem daunting when starting out, but they are actually a manageable, if not time-consuming, project. If you do not have the skills to sew your own stays, they can be purchased, but they will be expensive. Stays will likely be the most expensive investment for a female reenactor who is just starting out, however they are a sound investment (and still MUCH less than a weapon of any kind! We women have it easy). A good, well-made set of stays will last you years. Because of our high standards of authenticity, we require every female participant to wear them if wearing a fitted garment like gown, caraco or jacket. No woman is ever allowed to field without appropriate undergarments.5 Petticoats: Two Petticoats in a solid color are the minimum, as at least two were worn at all times. Print petticoats are only acceptable if worn with a gown or jacket of the same fabric. Petticoats generally run from mid-calf to above the ankle (most common). Avoid making them too long, and you will be stumbling over them continuously. Make sure to make them roomy enough to be full- generally about 120” circumference. Depending on your location, they can be wool, linen, or one of each. If you plan on attending events in the north and south, it is probably a good idea to have more than two, so that you will not be stuck in Virginia in July wearing a wool petticoat, or New York in November with only linen. They need to be pleated to a waistband, not gathered. These long seams may be machined, but everything else should be done by hand. Petticoats are very simple to make and are an excellent garment to start out with.6
Outer Garment: There are many options for the outer garment: gown, bedgown, jacket, etc. (all of these garments, because of their visibility, must be hand sewn. Linings and interior seams may be machined if time is a factor, but any visible stitch needs to be done by hand). All of the following are acceptable, but some are more accurate than others. These are in order from most to least accurate:7
Gown: This was by far the most common thing worn by women of all classes in the 18th century, but they are underrepresented in the reenacting community because of the skill- level required to construct them. We would eventually like every woman in the Company to have a gown, and this should be what all the camp followers are working toward. If you have the skill, please consider making one of these instead of the other options.
Bedgown: The second-best option for an outer garment. These appear to be common among the lower and middle classes, and are reasonably easy to construct.
Shortgown: The third best option. These are very easy and quick to make, and because of that are very, very common in the reenacting community. Whether or not they are entirely accurate for us is still up for debate, as most of the extant examples seem to come out of the Pennsylvania area and not out of England. While not ideal, it is acceptable as a starting out option.
Jacket: Placed last simply because these seem to be slightly more upper-class garments than a bedgown or a shortgown. They are entirely accurate for our time period, though, so don’t consider this to be entirely inappropriate. A well-seasoned, worn-in, slightly out of fashion jacket can be an excellent option, as long as everyone in the unit isn’t wearing
one. The one rule of these garments is that they must be sleeved and covering the elbow. The all too frequently seen “bodices” are entirely inaccurate and have little base in history. They are not allowed.8
Apron: Aprons were worn by women of all classes and can be anything from simple woollen squares to extravagant embroidered silk. For our purposes you will need a large enough apron to cover most of the front of your skirts. These were frequently made of striped or checked white linen, but a piece of wool is entirely appropriate. Your apron will take a great deal of wear so it should be strongly made. It should be hand sewn and pleated to a piece of linen or woollen tape.9
Neck Handkerchief: The small triangle or square of fabric that was used to fill in the neckline of low-cut 18th century clothing. This is most commonly made out of a piece of white linen, though a piece of appropriate silk or printed cotton is also accurate (check with the unit first!) as are many other fabrics. This should be hand sewn.10
Cap: Women in the 18th century (except in very rare instances) always covered their head. Any woman in camp should have a cap on at all times. These must be made from white linen only and entirely hand sewn. There are many styles that are accurate, but the most common style is three-pieces with a separate band of fabric that attaches the ruffle to the caul of the cap. The circular, drawstring “mob caps” are not accurate and should not be used. The cap should be large enough to cover most of your head but not so large that it swallows your face. Consult period images to see some of the many varieties of caps from the period.11
Hat: Low-crowned women’s style in straw, or felt, plain or covered; or bonnet. A cap or hat is required except for fine ladies. Hats typically were simply decorated; flowers, and feathers should be avoided, unless doing a gentry interpretation.
Hair: Your hair will generally not be seen as it will always be covered by your cap, but keep in mind that your hair should never be seen hanging out of your cap. Loose hair, ponytails and braids should not be showing, and should be pinned up or kept in your cap at all times. Bangs should not show as they were rare in the 18th century. Please pin them under your cap.12
Jewellery: Most Lexington women would not have had any jewellery with them (except a wedding band) as they were women of very moderate means. While we will allow a simple wedding band, please do not wear any other jewellery, including earrings.13
Makeup: No makeup is allowed. Do not wear perfume and avoid wearing heavily scented lotions, sunscreens, and other toiletries.14
Cold weather gear: Optional. Period-pattern cloaks, mantles, tippets, hoods, etc. Wool kerchiefs. Woven or knitted wool, linen, or cotton (or silk appropriate to the overall impression) mitts, mittens, or gloves. Wool and/ or fur muffs. Kinsale cloaks are discouraged as are Celtic pins and penannular brooches. Wearing a men’s military uniform coat is unacceptable.
About lace: Eyelet and tatting are not authentic to the period. Crochet is not acceptable in any form (lace, shawls, etc.). Machine-made lace is acceptable if it is in imitation of period- style lace.
Baskets, market baskets and workbags: Baskets should be made of wood splint or willow, metal parts are discouraged. Also use of pockets is strongly encouraged.
Children’s Clothing Babes in arms: Shirt or shift, and cap, of linen, cotton, or wool, in white. A frock and petticoat are optional but preferred. Shoes and stockings optional. If plastic diapers are used, cover with a cloth.
Young children: (unbreeched boys from toddlers through age 3 to 7 and girls from toddlers through early puberty) shift of linen, cotton, or wool, in white or natural with a child’s frock (back closing for either gender/front closing for boys only) and petticoat. Cap and /or hat for girls (optional but preferred), workman’s cap or uncocked or single cocked hat for boys (optional but preferred). Stockings, as for women. (Period-style shoes due to the expense of children’s shoes, any black or brown leather lace-up modern shoes are also acceptable.)Once boys reach “breeched” age of 7, boys should appear at least in stockings, breeches, workshirt, period correct coat or jacket and cap or hat. Period-style shoes; due to the expense of children’s shoes, any black or brown leather lace-up modern shoes are also acceptable.
1 Rebecca L. Fifield, ed., Women’s Dress during the American Revolution: An Interpretive Guide, (New Jersey: Brigade of the American Revolution, 2004), 59.
2 Ibid.
3 Mara Riley, Whatever Shall I Wear? A Guide to Assembling a Woman’s Basic 18th Century Wardrobe, (Excelsior
Springs: Graphics/Fine Arts Press, 2002), 31.
4 Fifield, 21-24
5 Riley, 14-15. See also Fifield, 32-33. 6 Fifield, 25-31.
7 Ibid., 35-43.
8 Ibid., 44.
9 Riley, 25.
10 Fifield, 48-49.
11 Ibid., 50-56.
12 Ibid., 68-69.
13 Ibid
14 Ibid